Any advice on striper

So I have the chance to get a used striper---the brand is MB-dont have model number or anything. Guy says it runs great--I've never heard of them but Im sure you all have. I have a Graco and a Speeflo now--sounds like it has a 5hp honda motor same as my other two. Looks like it has a big air compressor on it? Any advice with this little info? Just wondering if I should go take a look at it...

That's an air atomized machine, I might buy it for the compresser if it's dirt cheap but for striping I would stick with the airless. I will take you longer to learn how to adjust it to spray a good line then it would take to stripe the mall with the aireless.

THEY MAKE GOOD ARMY TANKS

If it's a walk behind model, it sounds like their 3-10. I like the fact they came with an agitator on the paint tank, but the horizontal configuration of the paint tank on the bottom and the welded on platform with the engine and compressor attatched on the top, somehow did'nt appeal to me. I know they were trying to save frame space which also saves weight but I prefer the paint tank with a top lid for ease of loading and cleaning. The Kelly Creswell HD model C I had in the past was easy to use and clean when done. They made very smooth edged lines with the air curtains when adjusted correctly. I miss it now. Good luck if you decide to get it if the price is right!

Thanks for the input, sounds like I better pass on it. I think I could get it for $400. and I do believe it is a 310, after seeing a picture of it. Thanks Again

Could be worth having if you have used conventional machines before. If you're new to them, the learning curve is steep. Especially if you have to figure it all out on your own. They don't just spray a line all on their own, you have to convince them to.

If it's 400 bucks, that's a cheap aire compresser on wheels, you may can find a use for it even if it's not painting lines.

Hey there Pat. Please don't think I am trying to talk you out of getting the MB. You yourself, would know if it is a good deal by how clean the exterior looks, how easy the engine starts and stops without having any back firing and how the air pump builds pressure. The spray gun you can check by letting the owner allow you to test it with water. Also, find out first, if the gun has stainless steel wetted parts internally, so you can also use the machine with waterbourne paints as well as oil based paints. Like straightline says, the machine can also come in handy for inflating tires (with a tire chuck), and also for use with many air powered tools too. Final decision is yours Pat! Wally, as usual also has some good advice as to learning the techniques of spraying quality lines by practicing with a conventional air spray unit. In time, I'm sure you'll master the procedures down "Pat" shall I say? Ha, ha. Seriously though, you need to adjust the proper tank pressure, (usually about 35-40 psi) based on the thickness of your paint. With airless units, you need not thin the paint. Airspray units usually need it thinned a little to the right consistency. Atomizing gun pressure is about 50 psi. Think it over carefully Pat and good luck. Stu

Being a few years old, it may not have stainless steel components. If you are planning on using latex paint, you might have a problem with the latex's reaction to normal steel and cause your machine to plug up.

Absolutely ware-ever. Oil and water definitely do not mix! The good thing is that the MB 3-10 uses a Binks style hand spraygun in a special bracket made for the model gun. To convert it over to stainless steel wetted parts is simple if it becomes necessary.

Thanks for all the comments, after reading them all I realize just how much I really dont know--with things like tank agitator,atomizing the gun,reaction to latex,wetted parts--holy smokes--I think I would have a better shot at landing a helicopter than using this thing--and I've never even been in a helicopter. I think I will for sure pass unless I get it for free-even then I will be afraid to look at it in the dark!! On a side note- I have the chance to get a concrete grinder...I am going to try and post a pic of it, and if the pic posting works - do any of you know the brand or anything about it, any advice at all is appreciated-----if the pic dont post forget you even read this sentence. GEEZ-I feel like I should be paying for all this info you guys have been giving me--maybe one day I will have an answer for you on something, it probably wont be about striping though.... Thanks again

Don't know the name of it but it's a pumice stone grinder used more for sanding floors what you need is a scarifier with the metel bits.

Just saw your pics. I too like straightline cannot determine the brand name from the underside view of the machine. Try looking on the web about the Graco, Edco and Smith model scarifiers. You'll see from the photos, they mean business! To do a pavement surface, you need a machine with "drums". They are composed of many round carbide tipped edges similar in looks to a camshaft. They have a little "play" on the free movment as the machine's motor makes these drums rotate and create the grinding action on the road surface. Spacers are used in between the carbide tipped rotating blades too. Good luck in your decision!

thanks I was thinking maybe this grinder would be good for like taking off some layers of paint on many handicaps i come across that are just really thick. The scarifiers i have seen are just not in the budget right now. the guy said that there are different types of attachments for the bottom, i guess i would have to go see what that really means.

By all means Pat, do go check out what is available. You could be getting a great deal on a piece of equipment that will come in very handy for the business. Everybody looks these days to stay within their budgetary means. Don't feel ashamed! Stu

pat wrote on Oct 13, 2011:Go to #14

thanks I was thinking maybe this grinder would be good for like taking off some layers of paint on many handicaps i come across that are just really thick. The scarifiers i have seen are just not in the budget right now. the guy said that there are different types of attachments for the bottom, i guess i would have to go see what that really means.

Check the pawn shops, you may can find one cheap. This will work for that for a while but these stones will get slick with sticky powdered paint real fast. If you get a scarifier, the bits you need for chipping thick paint like on the handicaps is the plain steel, you just let them baraly hammer on the surface and the loose paint will pop off.

In regards to grinders for sale, watch the IronPlanet.com auctions (usually the Thursday weekly sale). Sunbelt Rentals is upgrading their fleet and is unloading grinders, scarifiers, saws and other equipment. If you have a Sunbelt local store, go offer the manager a $$$ amount straight out. I bought an EDCO carbide tipped drum version for $250. It paid for itself on the first job.