Banana Lines

What's the most common reason a new striper (the person) would be getting banana lines. I have some slight ones every once in a while (enough to bother me when it happens although I haven't had any complaints), but the guy i have hired to help me seems to have a bigger problem with them. I turned him loose on a small restripe in the back end of the lot and on every line he set up but then curve out to the left through center and back to the right at the curb.. I really want to correct my slight issue and his bigger issue before we start some large layout jobs that i have booked. I have done searches but nothing directly relating to the cause or avoiding them has come up. So what non condescending advise can be offered to someone who really cares about doing a great job, and putting down the straightest lines possible? Does it come from trying to correct? We are using a driver.. I can see them in every lot that i enter on a daily basis, so i can see it's a very common thing, but I don't want to be one putting them down..

It has to do with the way humans walk, hip swing. Need to do a chalk lines and have him follow those until he relearns how to walk. Once he learns how to walk like a striper he has to learn how to use the FORCE to paint a straight line without an aide.

I had a guy that was shooting bananas. He was lining up on the start of the line and pushing about 6 inches before he pulled the trigger. I had him start his push 2-3 feet away so he corrected by the time he pulled the trigger. Had something to do with how he shoved off at the beginning. Not a problem with a driver as they push low and centered.

Use a pointer we make ours of 1/4" rod just a bit ahead of gun, if that does not work add rocks to the pocket opposite to the way he pulls to until its corrected.

Diminished glutes could cause bananna lines

First make sure your front caster is tracking straight. Second, alignment alignment alignment! Have him start 15 or 20' before the start of the line and by the time he is on the start of the line, the machine should be tracking straight down it. You can't judge the track the machine is taking unless it is in motion (without a long pointer or laser). That means you need to be in motion way before the start of spraying to get the correct and straight track from the beginning of the line to the end otherwise you are trying to correct through the length of the line giving you bananas or S curves.

So yesterday I had him back way out on his set up, and be sure the machine was already straightened out before reaching the line... It took him a couple times at first to get lined up so he met the line when he got to it, but practice will obviously speed things up. I also told him not to try to correct if he got off a little and to not wrestle or try to pull the machine, but he had to take the time in the set up to insure he didn't get off by much. The lines came out great... and I can deal with the extra time it takes until he's more comfortable and gets faster. thanks guys

RandyV wrote on Jul 24, 2015:Go to #6

First make sure your front caster is tracking straight. Second, alignment alignment alignment! Have him start 15 or 20' before the start of the line and by the time he is on the start of the line, the machine should be tracking straight down it. You can't judge the track the machine is taking unless it is in motion (without a long pointer or laser). That means you need to be in motion way before the start of spraying to get the correct and straight track from the beginning of the line to the end otherwise you are trying to correct through the length of the line giving you bananas or S curves.

I still need to find a nice flat place to chalk a line and check the machines. It's honestly been hard to find the time.. but I think I have a break this week..

One thing to check is the tension on the front wheel release. The cable stop should be against the bracket but not tight. Even a little tension will cause the block not to seat all the way giving you a little slop on the wheel

RandyV wrote on Jul 24, 2015:Go to #6

First make sure your front caster is tracking straight. Second, alignment alignment alignment! Have him start 15 or 20' before the start of the line and by the time he is on the start of the line, the machine should be tracking straight down it. You can't judge the track the machine is taking unless it is in motion (without a long pointer or laser). That means you need to be in motion way before the start of spraying to get the correct and straight track from the beginning of the line to the end otherwise you are trying to correct through the length of the line giving you bananas or S curves.

What Randy said here is key. Start lining up 15' to 20 FEET back from the start of your line. By the time your at the start you should be lined up ready to pull the trigger. Practice makes perfect. You also gotta hold your mouth right...

Re-post post. Lol

Use a laser pointer to line up and get use to following it, after a few lines you will not need again. It is like training wheels on a bicycle. Sometimes when I have not painted in awhile, I use the laser for a few lines.

Calif Striper wrote on Jul 22, 2015:Go to #3

I had a guy that was shooting bananas. He was lining up on the start of the line and pushing about 6 inches before he pulled the trigger. I had him start his push 2-3 feet away so he corrected by the time he pulled the trigger. Had something to do with how he shoved off at the beginning. Not a problem with a driver as they push low and centered.

This answer above is the best simple answer. i'ts much easier to be tracking straight before you even consider pulling the trigger.

I'll add to this just by saying, once you get your machines tracking straight and line them up to paint, DON'T FIGHT THEM. Let the machine do it's thing!

jpanz wrote on Jul 24, 2015:Go to #9

One thing to check is the tension on the front wheel release. The cable stop should be against the bracket but not tight. Even a little tension will cause the block not to seat all the way giving you a little slop on the wheel

If that chunk metal that locks the caster wheel in place starts wearing away and lets everything get sloppy you can take it out, flip it around and re-screw it in place (It has a second life).