Chaos

Fill with oil. The oil sensor may be detecting low oil and shutting it down, especially when backing and stopping quickly.

If it does this after it gets hot and the other suggestions don't help it could be getting too hot, pull the red cover off and clean the gunk from around the head.

All of the above can cause this. Most common is the gas cap problem. We drilled two holes in the bottom of ours. You have to drill all the way through the inside gasket. We also had that problem with our LL and it was the seat switch. Unhooked it and the problem went away. The oil sensor can also be unhooked to check the problem but make sure it's full of oil. We have one machine that will occasionally die in a left turn. Have never found the cause of that.

Reasonably sure its not the gas cap, I did find that out while searching a while back and tried that, but still happening. Ill try changing the oil today (its overdue anyways) and see if that helps, and Ill try the seat switch thing too. What do you mean by red cover Rcan?

Where the pull rope is, take the whole cover off and you can clean the head and fan to improve air flow over the cooling fins.

I've never done that before... What is the procedure for cleaning, pressure wash, air, carb cleaner??

Rock wrote on Oct 30, 2011:Go to #6

I've never done that before... What is the procedure for cleaning, pressure wash, air, carb cleaner??

Knife, paint brush and mild solvent. If I remember right it uses a rubber gasket on the head so don't use a harsh solvent. It's really simple, 4 or 5 10mm bolts, and just scrape off the majority of the gunk then brush on the solvent and count to 20 and wipe down, use the knife or scrapper to push the cloth between the fins.

Update? Oil change solve the problem..?

and there you go ------------->

Rock wrote on Nov 3, 2011:Go to #9

and there you go ------------->

Sorry everyone I've been swamped with painting the last few days. At first I thought the oil change solved it, but no, was still happening. Haven't tried pulling the red cover off yet. We turned the fuel switch down a little (below the choke) and it seemed to help, but still happening, but less frequently. Maybe something in the carburetor, I really don't know. I'm almost shut down for the season, I'll probably just end up taking it to Honda. Removing the seat switch didn't do anything either. Thanks for all the suggestions, maybe I'll tinker one last time with the red cover idea.

Lineskill, We had a 3500 acted like that. After an oil change would be OK for a bit then start dying again. The low oil sensor switch was bad. Unplugged it and has never happened since. Has been three years running fine unplugged. We just watch the oil a little closer. Usually a fuel related problem will cause the engine to surge a bit before it dies while a electrical problem will just suddenly cause the engine to stop. While the engine is running turn the fuel lever of and notice how long it surges before it finally dies. It will take a while to use up the fuel in the carb bowl before it starts surging but will then surge for 15 seconds or so before it finally dies. Turn the electrical switch of and notice it stops immediately. That should tell you which is causing the problem. The oil sensor can act a little like a fuel problem as the engine may almost die then fire again before it stops turning if the sensor clears up. It may completely die then start right back up or you may have to let it sit a while to restart. It is a grounding switch so if you unplug the wire it will totally eliminate it from the system and it cannot kill the engine.

May be stupid but have you checked the fuel filter.

Don wrote on Jan 25, 2012:Go to #13

May be stupid but have you checked the fuel filter.

I don't think that engine has a filter. May just need a carb rebuild, with it dying when warm it sounds like it may be running too rich which would indicate a bad float.

Hello, I was wondering if I could get a bit of help and opinions on buying a new brand of paint machine. I definitely want Titan or Graco. I've used both when I was working for a company in the past until I started my own business Snipe Line Painting . Unfortunately, the machines I'm using now are not very good and always breaking down so it's time to upgrade. I like both Titan and Graco but was wondering if one has a better reputation over the other in terms of maintenance and part costs, reliability, function consistency, control etc. I'm just looking for opinions on which brand people think there is more value in. Thank You

That is a Chevy Ford question that will never have a real answer. There are advantages to both and the main thing is to compare the competitive size machines. Seems to me that most prefer the ergonomics of the Graco but The hydraulic pumps over the Electra magnetic pumps. Comparing the smaller machines both have the electric clutch. The bigger machines both have hydraulic pumps. The midsize the Graco 3900/5900 has electric where the Titan 4900 uses hydraulic. We run all Gracos and have been very satisfied and had very few problems. We do repack at around 500 gallons but that is rather inexpensive and a easy job on the 3900's. The one advantage that's important to us is the auto layout system that's available on the Graco's. We have found it to be a great time and labor saver and well worth the extra cost. The one thing I don't like is that big fire hose that is so hard to handle on the Graco's. We installed a longer whip on the end of the long hose so that we seldom ever unwrap any of it. Buy the one you like best that has the ability to handle your operational needs then join the debate over which is best.

Thanks very much Milt! I'll definitely be using those helpful points in my decision making. I'm not familiar with using the Graco auto layout system but I've been reading up on it and it sounds great! It seems even better to me now that a real line painter speaks highly of it. Thanks Again.

Toss a coin. I like Ford.

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