Dirty Stripes

I've had latex Ennis Dura Sheen white turn "browney" in some spots..almost like a solvent paint does on fresh sealcoat It was on a six year old plain asphalt restripe, never sealcoated. Makes you wonder if that strong ammonia drying agent also bites into the asphalt...

That's the reason we do not use latex, unless we are striping over sealcoat, even after we do a double coat with either acrylic modified from sherwin Williams or gorilla paint, we don't use latex for nothing, it retains all the dirt. Wheter is concrete or asphalt.

This is not related to latex paint but a few years ago right after we painted a large local mall, we noticed the white stop bars and arrows looked almost grey. I was worried because it was one of many malls we had a contract to stripe. I watched this job closely and after about 2-3 weeks, the paint looked bright white and clean again. My conclusion was that the fresh paint was not fully cured and was tracking dirt for many days (a couple of weeks maybe). I had never seen this before or since so I am guessing the batch of paint we used was somehow different or off from normal. This was a premium alkyd paint from SW (A300) I think.

I NORMALLY USE DIAMOND VOGEL PAINTS BUT I HAVE NOT HAD GOOD LUCK WITH THEIR WHITE STRIPING PAINT. IT IS HARD TO CLEAN UP AND TRACKS VERY VERY BAD. I HAD A SAMPLE BUCKET OF ENNIS PAINT AND IT SEEMS TO BE DOING FAIRLY WELL. I WILL FINISH THIS SEASON USING ENNIS PAINTS

You should try lying down in a parkinglot sometime and let several hundred cars drive over you, dump coffee and ash trays on you, empty chew spit cups all over you and then try to stay all bright and shiny white.

frfghtrchd wrote on Aug 25, 2011:Go to #5

You should try lying down in a parkinglot sometime and let several hundred cars drive over you, dump coffee and ash trays on you, empty chew spit cups all over you and then try to stay all bright and shiny white.

I think he's talking about application bleed-through not tracking

I take it back . Was not suggesting that anyone actually go and try this for real. Quess I should have posted that response in the after hours/jokes category.

Q- Stripe..., Latex goes over oil Fine. The problem is in getting good surface adhesion sine oil is often very smooth.Light sanding or washing with TSP will provide a good surface for a bonding type latex primer.Oil over latex is often a problem. Latex paint is more flexible than oil paint, and putting a hard film over a softer film can often cause cracking problems. At the very least the hard film properties of the oil paint are compromised. You can make it stick, but if you already have latex it is better to stick with latex. Some of the newer acrylic paints work as well as oil used to, and even have full gloss formulations now. They often need a little Floetrol to level out nicely though.

Neal wrote on Nov 10, 2011:Go to #8

Q- Stripe..., Latex goes over oil Fine. The problem is in getting good surface adhesion sine oil is often very smooth.Light sanding or washing with TSP will provide a good surface for a bonding type latex primer.Oil over latex is often a problem. Latex paint is more flexible than oil paint, and putting a hard film over a softer film can often cause cracking problems. At the very least the hard film properties of the oil paint are compromised. You can make it stick, but if you already have latex it is better to stick with latex. Some of the newer acrylic paints work as well as oil used to, and even have full gloss formulations now. They often need a little Floetrol to level out nicely though.

Neal..have you ever marked pavement..?

Neal ?? I'm not sure why your response was directed to me. My only post was to ask stripe guy 2 what paint he was using. His original post was about having a problem with white paint getting dirty. Your post seems to be addressing a completely different issue. While I have an opinion on painting either oil or latex on top of the other, I will not respond to that here so we can try to keep this thread "on topic". Regarding this thread about dirty stripes, this is a problem we all seem to face at some time or another. I seem to experience that problem more often with latex than oil based; but not exclusively. I think it is more related to particular products, brands and especially production batches as well as weather / environmental conditions and the condition of the lot; some lot surfaces are just dirtier than others. I also think that we are sometimes putting down too much paint that takes too long to not only dry but to fully cure.

By the time a customer orders a restripe the old lines have been sanded by nature and time, you have no need to take sandpaper to line or use any primer. Floetrol is used when using a brush to improve flow, if you are using a brush to paint a parking lot then you are 100 years behind the rest of us and I hope your using a long handel brush or your back will start to ach real fast. Is this you, PoopyJoe?

Now that I have looked at the other posts Neal has made, I think Bleen has asked the right question. I think he maybe lost and thinking this a different forum. His other posts are just as confusing and unrelated (maybe more) than this one.