Fire lane and No parking stencil

I have both but I don't prefer one over the other. I would rather buy more 1/16" than to pay more for 1/8".

I have the thicker ones. Because of their size I believe that I would be just as happy with the thin ones. I would advise you to save money

Depends on how much you use them. I had mine custom cut out of aluminum 15 years ago and am still using them.

I use the thinner ones. I akso had Robert make them with the over spray protector. I ordered 8 and don't always us all of them but when you get a couple of thousand feet to do your glad you have them....

If you are in a windy city I would get the thicker stencils as the wind will blow the thin stencils around on the ground, the thicker stencils do not blow around as much as the thinner stencils but still blow around so I use pieces of the 1/8" blank plastic to hold the stencils down. It is windy a lot here and I wish I had the money to buy all thick stencils in the beginning but all I buy now are the thick stencils. Get as many as you can afford, when you do a lot of firelane it is nice to have many sets so some can dry and you can keep going and that is with wiping off the excess paint, they still need a little time to dry so there is no dripping. The more sets you have, the faster you can go.

We always go thicker. The thin stuff is almost a disposable stencil..IMHO

The thin stencils are definetly "Disposable". Dont waste your money on them, go with the thick. We do 1000's ++ of feet of firelane daily. We have 40 plus "No Parking Fire Lane" on hand. The thin stencils tend to curl up after multiple uses. Plus if its a touch windy the thins tend to blow away! Now if its a ONE time use stencil, say a custom, then I would buy the thin.

thanks for the feedback guys, I went with the thin and hope they work out for me. If not I will have to get the thicker ones. They should show up tomorrow. I will let you know how it works

Whats the best tip number to use for painting the curb RED and whats the best tip number for the STENCIL. I was thinking a 517 for the RED and 4 something for the stencil? I have a graco 3400

Everyone has a different approach. We use a 319 on the curbs. Make two passes if its top and face. Then we use a 217 for the stencils if we use the machine instead of spray cans. Many will tell you NOT to use spray cans but you can make up your own mind and what works best for you. I have and do use both and at different times they both work well. The spray cans we use ...wear and look as good as the gun. The appearance will also depend on the stencil itself. Which we use will depend on how many stencils we may be spraying. As you do more jobs and do things different ways you'll develop what works best for your own personality.

For starters.....A 315-317 would be good for curbing and a 215-217 for stenciling.

Use 1/8" for Fire Lane Stenciling. They will last longer, and stand up against the curb better. Try to stay away from using 1/16" thick stencils if they will be used for repeatedly banging out multible stencilings

Markings #1 wrote on Oct 11, 2011:Go to #12

Use 1/8" for Fire Lane Stenciling. They will last longer, and stand up against the curb better. Try to stay away from using 1/16" thick stencils if they will be used for repeatedly banging out multi

ple stencilings. ... As they will become hard to handle and will likely distort from the solvents if using oil based paint (temporarely).

Like I said, I ordered the thin ones as this was my first fire lane nearly 4000 feet. With the advice from you all, it went really smooth, I used a 315 tip, i tried the 517 tip but it seemed way too wide. I did the side or bottom first then did the top. On some of the curbing I did the top by hand, my buddy pushed the striper and i gunned. Ended up doing nearly 100 stencils, and we used cans for that, I know there are mixed feeling about this technique --but its what we went with this time, not saying its the best or worst, but worked great for us. The stencils did superbly. The canned paint was not easy to peel off once dry. Thanks again

pat wrote on Oct 11, 2011:Go to #14

The canned paint was not easy to peel off once dry

It will be once it gets a little build up on it. Next time try a little grease on the stencil.

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Been having a tough time deciding if I should get into Thermo because I dont get a lot of requests for it...BUT more and more jobs I'm bidding on are asking for Arrows and stop bars to be done in durable markings (usually 3M or equivalent) all the rest of the markings are usually paint. So my question is this: Has anybody been using the pre-formed durable markings or durable "Tape" products? Are they working out? I know they are more than Thermo but there is very little overhead and since I dont get alot of requests. Im thinking of trying some but would like some feed back on your experiences and what you all would recommend. As always your suggestions and feed back are greatly appreciated. Frank

I was in on the ground floor when preformed (Flint Trading) was approved by Cal Trans here in Cali. It may have been the first use on a state highway here. It was a small job where we could compete because the thermo guys had huge move in costs at the time. There are more guys doing thermo here now and it's more competitive. So I have stayed away. It is not used in parking lots here at all.

Try posting in After Hours next time and change your underwear.