Graco Auto layout

Surveyors inverted marking paint from your local equipment rentals store. Cheap $2.95 a can and fades fast a can goes a long way.

I have the auto-layout on my newly purchased 200HS and so far I give it thumbs DOWN. It is not living up to all of the hype. We are back to laying out old school chalk and chalk line.

I can't imagine doing that when you have auto layout. It does have a learning curve but once you get onto it a real time saver. Coupled to a rider it is the greatest thing since pockets on a shirt. If your pushing it may be less work to mark and snap rather than push the machine those extra steps. We almost never snap a chalk line. We do pull string for a base line or long center line but once we dot the starts it gets moved. Now that we have it I hate seeing chalk all over a new layout. One of the best things I like best about it is laying out convex or concave. We have a lot of that in the mountains and it really makes those a piece of cake.

I admit I am hard headed and slow to come around to some of the new things but agree the auto layout is one of if not the best tools to come out. I've only been in for 8 years and haven't seen as much as the veteran stripers.

Milt, I have the LineDriver HD hooked up to the 400HS and I recently had a huge over seal job that was concave and granted the original stripers were off on the layout, i decided to practice w/ the auto layout and the marks were way off. Who instructed you on how to use the layout system. We got with our local graco rep but it didn't help much. He calibrated the machine several times but it was still off .25" at 36'. So if you extrapolate that, a row of say 40 stalls (360') you will be off 2.5' at the end! Totally unacceptable. Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated, maybe a video of you laying out a lot with the machine? Thanks guys.

I don't know the answer to the calibration error as we have never had a problem with ours. Always withen 1/2 inch per 100 foot on good pavement. If your on old pavement with a lot of dips and humps that can throw it of as it rolls up and down. As far as convex or concave we just pick a constant distance from the curb and roll the machine around for a measurement then tell the computer how many stalls we need and it sets the measurement. We then roll around the same arc and dot it. On the heads we back of the curb and dot at the length of the stall in many locations. We then drive along that arc and measure and then make reference marks at the measuremet the computer says. Care must be take to back at the approximate angle of the stall lines. If you want to be a little more accurate lay a cable out to for the arc at the head of the stalls and measure and dot along the cable. One tip is always measure and dot from the same end reference then if there is a valley or hump effecting your measurement it will be consistant. We always check our end stall for proper width as if it's of they will all be. We have found it more accurate on convex or concaves than trying to follow an arc with a tape measure. If your uncomfortable snap the lines to make sure it looks right. I don't have any new construction scheduled right now but if we get something I will try to make a video.

When we calibrate the unit, we always do it at night. We use a green lazer attached to the rear gun bar. We put two pieces of duct tape down exactly 100ft apart. Then I take 3 readings. If you watch your screen you can see the light pulses. Take the average of the three readings and you will be set. We have it less than 1/4 inch per 100ft right now. Jim

Thanks Milt and Jpanz, I can't wait to see that video! Good point, the surface we originally calibrated the machine on was pretty rough. I will re-calibrate the machine again in our warehouse which has a smooth surface. Jpanz has an excellent idea using the lazer and duct tape I'll give that a shot.

You aslo have to watch your tire pressure. In the heat the pressure bounces around. We keep the tires at 60psi and keep the calibration for months. Jim

Yes the lazer is a great idea and we are going to use it. ( Thanks Jim) As far as a video there is very little new construction going on here this year so may be a while. We are mostly doing restripes. Remember even though the machine is calibrated on a perfect surface if you try to lay out a rough surface with it it can be of. If the machine rolls down a surface and back up again it will be a longer distance than pulling a tape across the low spot. The machines are primarily for laying out a new surface and works great for that. On old lots you may get a little deviation and have to resort to tapes and marks in some areas. But how often is there be need to lay out an old rough lot? If it is newly sealed we try to avoid layout changes as the sealer will wear of and leave ghost lines.

We have been living off of new construction, very little restripes. I was testing the layout on this particular job just to see how it would layout a convex lot, i had already restriped the existing lines. We get very few convex and concave lots and wanted to put it to the test and see if the dots lined up. On another note, the last few years have been rough due to the economy and not much new construction. Any tips on obtaining restripe work? Or working with asphalt companies. I have introduced myslef to most of the Asphalt guys in my area but the response is always we have a striper. I know most of the stripers they use and our pricing is competetive and our work is just as good if not better in some cases. Any advice?

Hey Right Line, I always make it a habit of stopping when some one else is striping. If they are part of an asphalt or sealing company and not just a striping company I will leave a card. I tell them that if they are ever overloaded with work I am available to help out. I came across an out of town company working in my area and did this. For several years now I have done 8-10 jobs a year for this customer. If he has a large job in this area his own crew will do the job. I do the small ones ($500-$2,500). A ten minute stop and the price of a business card can really pay off. Sorry for deviating from the original topic.

Mine just quit working, pump wouldnt stroke. Talked to my local spray shop and it needs a auto layout computer board. Not a very uncommon problem. Other than that it has been great.

On the problem with being off in measurements, order the wheel speed sensor. It is easily replaced and solved my problem. My problem is my screen is not bright enough in the sun. Is this a common problem or just mine? Also has anyone cleaned their screen and with what? Am afraid to use any chemical as they might damage screen surface.

Bufhawk, no solvent and no ammonia!