Grinder/Scarfier Question

Quoting supdog8161, March 12, 2010 (that post is not in this thread):

Hello, I have a warehouse job with 60' long stalls that I will be doing within the next couple of weeks. I want to make sure the lines are straight as possible. I am going to purchase something to help. I was wondering about your setups...what you recommend, and maybe even some photos. I like the idea of a green laser, but I am not sure how to set it up. If any of you guys have pics of your laser set ups or tips about your laser set ups that would be great. Also, maybe advice about the better lasers to purchase. finally, I was wondering if any of you use pointers and if you have any advice, etc. Thanks! no pointer

nope, no pointer....

What is a pointer?

I'm trying to decide on the right grinder to prep concrete warehouse floors. I have to remove existing lines and prep new areas to install lines. I'm looking at the Smith SPS8 or 10, is there a better choice or a better way to remove lines and sealer from concrete floors? I'd appreciate you input. Thanks, Wingman

i always use pointer, on my machines i made pointers i used scrap steel laying around our shop, real cheap to make, all you need is 16 inches of 1/2 inch square tubing, 24 inches of 3/8 round stock,

If it is a good size warehouse with quite a few lines, get two helpers. Mark out the start and stops and have the two helpers hold the sting line while you paint. You will be in and out in record time with the straightest lines possible.

shotblast... http://www.blastrac.com/

Wingman wrote on Mar 12, 2010:Go to #4

I'm trying to decide on the right grinder to prep concrete warehouse floors. I have to remove existing lines and prep new areas to install lines. I'm looking at the Smith SPS8 or 10, is there a better choice or a better way to remove lines and sealer from concrete floors? I'd appreciate you input. Thanks, Wingman

Definelty hire a shotblast company

ware-ever wrote on Mar 13, 2010:Go to #6

If it is a good size warehouse with quite a few lines, get two helpers. Mark out the start and stops and have the two helpers hold the sting line while you paint. You will be in and out in record time with the straightest lines possible.

Do you mean they should hold the line on the outside of where the paint will be sprayed? Do you guys simply mark your stall widths using the outside of the lines as your "points", as opposed to the center of the line? I.e. If the wire was pulled taut by my employees in the center of the line, then there would likely be a small area that wouldn't be painted because of the line. Also, I would be the line would get wet and drip. So I presume you guys use the outsides of the line. Why not use a pointer? I am pretty decent at painting them straight, but I really want to put myself in position to paint the straightest line possible. Is there a disadvantage to using the pointer? I never have (been painting lines for 12 years), but I always thought it would help keep the lines straight, especially for my employees. Has anyone used a green laser as a "chalk line"? If so, how do you do it? Does it work? I have mostly heard of guys attaching the green laser to the gun itself. Is it done both ways? Thanks for your time.

Mark the beginning and end point of each stripe. These marks should also be the center of each line. Depending on which end of the line you start to paint, have your helpers hold the sting 2" away from the center marks (if you are painting 4" lines). You decide whether you want the string line to be the left edge or right edge of the new line. This will be personal preference. I prefer having the stringline to left of center. I find it easier to paint with the left edge as my guide. If you can paint the line without a "pointer", do so. If the person striping needs the pointer to help get straight lines, by all means use one, but they should be able to stripe without one after a period of time. Experienced stripers are able to paint new straight lines up to 20' and longer without a chalk line or string line. 60' foot lines in a warehouse might be a little more challenging without the string lines for help. Good luck.

Why hasn't anyone answered him about the lazer?

A scarifier (grinder) is not the right thing to use on a warehouse floor. If the existing markings are epoxy which is thick and adhered well, a shot blaster might damage the floor too much. Use an airless paint striper to spray and industrial paint remover strong enough to remove epoxy and urethane coatings and then scrape the lines off with a sharp floor scraper. If necessary, you can then lightly shot blast to do final removal of the remaining shadow but that should not be necessary. We own one of these shot blasters for major grinding and shot balsting projects: http://www.bwmanufacturing.com/shotblasting_1200.htm I just finished a warehouse in West Chicago and another in Milwaukee that I had to do shot blasting / floor prep before spraying epoxy lines. Existing lines were not removed because they were dull and about 50% gone so the new layout and fresh bright yellow epoxy lines are impossible to miss. New layout did not match existing layout.

maybe because no one uses it....beleive me if there was any tips on lazers it would have been posted already.String in it is one of those most practical tips....and did i mention it is also way cheaper than a lazer...

Thanks for the feedback, I sent emails to blastrack and bw manufacturing, they both appear to have machines that can potentially do the job. BW says its SB-6 can be adjusted to remove a 4" wide line, just what I had in mind. Not sure if the blastrack can do this. The epoxy and urethane lines I have to remove are mostly gone from heavy fork lift and tote traffic so a shot blaster might be the tool to use. Thanks again for the info, I hope we all have a great 2010.

I have had good luck with a scarifier equipped with mild steel bits.

Laredo, I was curious that no one had even mentioned a lazer. I know there are a few stripers that use them and it doe's seem that in a warehouse they would be almost perfect to use. The only reason I don't is I'm not sure how good they are in sun light. I am mostly by my self as far as help goes most time

Not being snippy, but if you go back thru the posts (search is handy) you will find lotsa info on lazers for layout. Briefly: Green lasers of 20mw and above (not exactly legal, yet not lethal either) are the laser to use. Forget the red ones, not strong enough except in rare circumstances. You will need a line generator lens to make a long straight beam line. You probably can't mount them on the machine, as the vibration is too much, but mounting on a layout buddy, deadTexan, deadweight, whatever you call them will provide a stringless layout line. I know RandyV uses them in warehouses with great success, so I bow to his greater knowledge in that arena. I have been working on my own version from time to time, with some success. Green lasers are also good for raising fish at night. At least the brave, stupid ones. String works good too.

Attracting fish - - - hmmmmm. Great! now I have to firgure out how to mount the lasers on the hand rails of my Boston Whaler for night fishing. If I am near the Canadian border in Lake Erie or Lake Huron, do you think the Dept of Homeland Security will think a boat with green lasers mounted all around would look suspicious?

I would suggest you go with an AquaStar fishing light, as lasers tend to attract too much....unwanted....attention. When you put a big 'ol moving green dot on the Port Authority water tower from two miles away, the Coasties get kinda curious. Of course, you could hang some neon on the bottom of your boat...you'd be styling then.

hmm UFO...unidentified floating object...