Indoor factory striping

Just to let every body know you are all wonderful with your expertise.Started striping last year and had good results.Used only latex pait.Got a call to come and bid on a concrete floor were the forklifts have been tearing up the tape.They want lines painted instead of the tape.Just like to get some help with the procedure on this.What is the suggestions on the cleaning solution for the concrete and what applications is best.Thanks

Shot blasting is the best and then you don't have to clean as the blaster will blast away the dirt too, you just need to go over it with a dust mop. If they don't want to spend the money for shot blasting then renting one of those floor cleaners is the easiest, the rental company will sell the cleaning solution. Power washing is out because of the risk of damage to expensive equipment or product. The paint I would recamend is one of the epoxies, check with your paint supplyer. It's a working factory so work up the cost of material and equipment rental then figure in some for extra time as you have to work around their equipment and they'll have to move product around as you work, they just won't have room to move everything out of the way all at once. Take some extra thinner, alway going to be an employee that didn't read the memo, you can find him at the end of the footprints.

do a quick search up top for "warehouse floor". there's a few different methods that some people use, I personally recommend the the "terazzo sealer" method which worked great and has still held up 7+ years later.

Went and looked at the job today.going to meet with a paint rep next week to decide what applications i will be using.Seems like there not worried about the cost,and there not having another bid on it.My question is would it be appropiate to ask for partial material money on the estimate since i am looking at maybe 5 thousand just in paint if i go with the apoxy.

Nothing wrong with asking for a down payment, just be sure you reflect it on the final bill.

Does this sound a bit stupid? You can always leverage the fact that a particular job has a high materials cost by arranging for an MUTUALLY AGREED "Due upon completion" stipulation. Plus, you can also leverage the costs in the proposal to your advantage by pre-discounting the price for the fast payment. Then later, you can just stick any discounts back into your invoice if they don't pay as fast as they initially promised... just make sure to add the cost of any discounts into the proposal as 'blue sky' or fluff, with any discounts based on the customers agreement to pay by a certain time. So in essence, your not really giving them a discount, but you are penalizing them if they are slower at paying than they had promised. I'm not always conventional, but this works for me when I have a 30 or 60 day account with the paint supplier, and even more so if I can pay my bill with a credit card that allows me to extend the costs another 20 to 30 days out.

I give them 2% if the pay within 10 days.

straightline wrote on Mar 3, 2012:Go to #7

I give them 2% if the pay within 10 days.

Same here!

SW sells a isle marking paint I have had good luck with. Franklin Paint CR works great on concrete. And just put sealer over it. You dont want it to last forever. You want them to call u back in a few years to do it again.

Thanks to everybody that responded.Met with the sherwin williams rep and seemed a bit puzzle also.What i am going to do is do some test lines using an acetone paint and then sealing it afterwords to see if it bonds to the concrete.The company wants no part of blasting are even etching.Is this the best solution are is there a paint and sealer that somebody recomends to use over the concrete floor without any prep work besides cleaning the floor.Thanks again,must present soon.

The SW rep isn't going to know anything about striping with epoxy because it's an off label application. If all they want to do is clean it then you need to warranty it accordingly. Just washing will not get the years of ground in dirt and crap out.

Some other options to consider: 1. A SW product called: Armorseal 1000HS. A two part epoxy. Sprays well. Good clean edges. Dries very hard and adheres very well to clean concrete. Surface does not need to be roughed up. Down side: needs at least 48 hours in 70 degree temperature to cure to handle light traffic, 7 days for a full cure. 2. Armorseal Rexthane floor coating. A clear coat to cover your colored lines. Single component. Gloss finish. 24 hours cure time for light foot traffic. Both are great products if you have the time to let them cure. Excellent idea in putting down test lines. You don't want to put down $5,000.00 worth of material plus labor only to find out the lines will not produce the results the client is expecting. Make sure the client makes the final decision on what type of product to use. Good luck.

Got the call for the indoor striping.Going to put down test ares with the low voc acetone paint with a sealer and do and area with the sherwin williams aisle marking paint.two questions to ask,what size tip would you use to get a 3" line and can it be achieved without taping off.The lines are visible because of the tape that previousley was down.Do i need to tape off or will i get a crisp line without?Again thank all of you here in this forum,your advice is priceless!!!!!

don144 wrote on Apr 9, 2012:Go to #13

Got the call for the indoor striping.Going to put down test ares with the low voc acetone paint with a sealer and do and area with the sherwin williams aisle marking paint.two questions to ask,what size tip would you use to get a 3" line and can it be achieved without taping off.The lines are visible because of the tape that previousley was down.Do i need to tape off or will i get a crisp line without?Again thank all of you here in this forum,your advice is priceless!!!!!

For tip size you should experiment some on cardboard. Tapping off depends on how sharp you need the edge to be. If you want it to cut glass then tap it off.