newbie wide line fever

Hey Ok I know it has been discussed once or twice. but I have a some line to remove on asphalt What are my options? I know there are not going to be any really clean to do this but I know it has to be done. Scarifier? Whouldn't that eat the asphalt up? Do they specified bits for asphalt? As long as I have a shop vac hooked back up to the back the machine it will pick most of the mess right? 3500+ psi pressure washing? Hot or cold water? Do would use a turbo nossel? When you are done wouldn't you have a bunch of little pieces of paint chips every where? Wire brush? Please don't suggest this method! Grinder? What would ya'll suggest? Thanks -Dean If it works

A scarifier will not remove all the paint without cutting a trench. I will use the scarifier with carbide teeth to remove the bulk of the paint from the surface, then a thin wash of black to hide the paint that's down in the pores. Waterblasting isn't too good in my experience, the paint is usually tougher than the asphalt, and all you do is make a mess of the asphalt. A shop vac hooked up to the scarifier will help with the mess, but unless you are doing a lot of removal, you can just blow and broom to get up the mess when you are done.

1 vote for wire brush and knee pads.. LOL j/k.. Offer to repave/sealcoat the sucker

How much removal are you talking about? And the wire brush method I recommend is only for freshly applied paint, immediate "blip" removal etc. I just happened to feel froggy once and scrubbed a forty footer off...

hey robert where is the best place to get the carbide teeth you are talking about? As far as how many lines On the low side 25 spaces and each have there on handicap stencils

I like the cutters that these folks sell: http://www.kutritemfg.com/index2.htm I like the machines that these folks sell: http://www.carbidecutters.com/Flash/machines/SPS10.html

Beg the owner to sealcoat, prime over lines with oil spot primer then seal with heavy sand load at least twice. Lines will always be there unless you know a company that knows how to sand blast asphalt without ripping it to shreds. We sandblasted about 60 40ft. lines a few years back and it turned out great.

Howdy; I'm newbie and I need a little help, actually I need a lot of help but I'll start with one question at a time. I am not new to painting but I am new to rolling a painting machine around. I have spent a great deal of my life on ladders, so I figured since I'm getting old I would learn to paint lines on the ground and then I wouldn't have so far to fall. I bought a Line Laser 200hs and most of the stuff I needed to be in business. I've been doing o.k. until now. I bid a job for cross walks and stop bars thinking I could double gun to spray 24 inches and push the machine to do most of the work. But I'm not able to get the distance or clean cuts. My dealer only stocks Rac 5 tips so I have been trying to dial in with them. I can get close but the guns are so high that I'm getting to much bounce and I worry about painting traffic as they pass. I was thinking I need to order LL tips but since they are special order I don't have any idea what to order. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks........... Bluesman

You have the right machine for painting wide lines. check out this picture: http://parkinglotplanet.com/photos/displayimage.php?album… I am using 2 4-27 tips. Note how they are angled towards the center. The outside of the spray fan is almost vertical.

If you can't wait for the tips, you can paint the perimeter (use the machine to stripe a rectangle). Then spray (fill in the middle) by hand.

A lot of people use cut out stencils. Like 1/4 " or the paperboard. I don't. I even used a 517 tip last year, two passes. Fine. Order LL tips from Franlkin Paint. Like Stripes I like LL319. It's my second year and I'm becoming more efficient.

You definitely need the LL yellow tips, I tried the black tips (cheaper)for some wide one pass stop bar work too and they just don't have a good enough spray pattern to be acceptable. The correct yellow LL tips will really improve things for you. I would not be to worried about oversraying traffic with airless machines under normal conditions.

Removal is the answer, covering them up will only delay the issue and may cost you work with the company when their lot looks terrible when the lines re-appear. I sandblast removed latex striping on a job approx. that size by myself in the fall of 2003. I believe I priced it like I didn't want it and received the job anyway, $1500.00 and it didn't take three hours or so start to finish including renting the equipment, load and unload. I posted a photo here previously. In my experience on that job and many others, latex will come off easier than oil based. For removal of traffic paint on asphalt I pick sandblasting, then scaryfier then blackout etc.

If you feel yourself starting to fall, push away from the striper, it's a bit embarrassing to go to the hospital with yellow paint in your hair.

I've noticed that some handicap parking spaces have an access hatched lane that crosses the drive to the door. Is this a new requirement that I haven't heard about ? Where can I find this information? I've checked the ADA on the forum but could not find anything.

This is a state or local thing. Here in Texas, you must have a marked accessible route from the unloading aisle to the ramp or building entrance. The route can cross a traffic lane, but if it does, it must be marked as a crosswalk.

Rock, You can find your answer at: http://www.usdoj.gov/crt/ada/restribr.pdf I have been to several ADA workshops and seminars in the last year and can assure you that an access aisle or accessable path is required nation wide. DOJ (Fed) administers the ADA. States and local governments (I work for a city as well as contract) can add to or make the requirement more stringent, but cannot take away from or lessen the federal requirements.