Oil base paint cleanup

I have only been striping for a few months, and have used only latex. I need to use some oil base in an upcoming job, and would appreciate any tips on cleanup, disposal, etc. and anything else that might be helpful. I know that flammability can be a hazard, and am wondering if using an electric drill (sparks) to stir paint is o.k. Thanks.

Use only a non sparking drill to stir, even cordless drills spark and with the alcohol it can be very explosive. If you shoot from your gun back into the bucket make sure you keep the gun touching the metal bucket and use only a metal bucket. Attach the grounding strap to the bucket too. Run paint thinner thru your machine after you have cleaned with soap and water then plain water to exceptionally clean before you put in the oil based paint. When done with the oil based flush well with thinner, then soapy water, then clear water then back to latex. When I have to stir paint with a drill which I prefer to have it shaken on a shaker, I use an air drill.

I would also recommend to use Xylene or Toluene to flush the lines while using Solvent based paints, just be careful not to use these solvents with water based (latex) paints.

Here's my two cents. I use both oil and latex paint on a regular basis. I would not recommend a high flashpoint solvent if your so worried about flaming paint cans. Like the ones recommended above. I would also not worry as much as the previous posters although I am not going to deny that it can happen. Always make sure the gun spraying into the can has metal to metal contact. If you pull away from that can and a static spark occurs, and all other conditions are there, there may be an explosion. I have seen it once, with a dumbass who used gasoline instead of paint thinner. You need to realize that the amount of static charge going thru these paint hoses is significant, if you don't believe it put on a set of damp cloth gloves and spray some stencils, you'll feel it. So if your intentions are to clean the machine out from one type to another, your very likely going to dispose of the cross contaminated clean out material (thinners or water). I would recommend and I myself would use the cheapest material I can get, because I would mix whatever the contaminated material is with cat litter or oil dry, which ever of those two happens to be cheaper. No sense over spending on material going to the garbarge. Cheap mineral spirits will flush out the lines as well as anything. Those "hot" thinners, Toloul, Xylene, Lacquer etc are unnecessary unless you are trying to "boil" out the system so-to-speak. The biggest problem with changing paint types is cross contamination. To avoid ongoing tip plugging etc down the road from paint type changing, change out the filter housing filter after flush out/clean out. I actually keep filters for latex separate from filters for oil based paints and use those filters in their own type paints only, after using this system for years I rarely experience any paint type changing issues and I do not even flush/clean my machines with a solvent or water. I pump one type out with the other, but that is for a different thread...

Thanks sdstriper. That 2 cents was worth at least a dollar. Is acetone considered a 'hot' solvent?

sealzit999 wrote on Mar 1, 2006:Go to #5

Thanks sdstriper. That 2 cents was worth at least a dollar. Is acetone considered a 'hot' solvent?

Check the product information or MSDS and see how the flashpoint compares to one of the "Hot" ones. The only thing I have used acetone for is to clean up adhesive mess.

Probably the safest thing to do is ask the paint supplier what the recommended thinner is for clean up.

The best thing to do is not (clean up). Just don't allow air in the lines. I firmly believe leaving solvent paint in machines (as long as they are used regularly) is better for the machines than cleaning them with hot solvent. Also, you don't have the expensive waste of materials and time.

Why is everyone making such a big deal about cleaning up with Acetone. If you have a little common sense and don't do anything stupid you will not have a problem. When you do need to clean the machine just recycle the acetone and keep using it until theres nothing left. Be careful and use what the paint manufacturer says to use. I am with Ken, don't clean until the machine breaks down, cleaning only costs you time and money and causes more problems for your machines. Jim

I use lacquer thinner that's how i was taught and it works great. Dave

I to switch from waterbased products to oil based products in the same machine. You have to clean out well for that and I thought that was the original question was he was going to go from waterbased to oil based then back.

We do like STRIPES says and leave paint in the machines, however for color changes we use Xylene or Toluene to make a quick flush of the lines. We have found that we use more Mineral Spirits when changing colors than if we use a hotter solvent like Xylene.

A Clean Machine is a working machine!

Never had a problem with any kind of drill sparking (corded or cordless) Only time I flush out a machine is when I have to(suction tube resembles a football, which displaces more paint than the bucket will hold) Don't laugh at me! You guys know what I'm talkin' about . What? About every six months? Newbies please note Chlorinated Rubber ONLY. Waterborne flush after every job! Water is FREE.

Oil base cleanup? what is that? I suspose that is one of the reasons I only use oil base paints. no or verry little cleanup. as long as you can keep the air away from the paint till it comes out of the gun there is no claenup. Well maybe once a year I might clean orr the pickup tube but no more then that. Change paints on a scrap piece of cardboard/visquine/in trailer there is no spills to cleanup. With no air oil base paints won't dry or seperate like water base. I have opened a new 5 gal paint bucket put it on the machine, floated 1/4" slow evaporating thinner on top of the paint. sealed the lid around the pickup/return tubes and left it for 3 months. Spring started the machine and let the paint curculate for about 1/2 hour and started painting. Only time I have ever had a problem is with a paint bucket that I could not seal or it was less then 3/4 full so thaere was a lot of air inside. This does not work for any paints other then oil base paints. And a working machine is not allways a clean machine.

Good info....thanks, I too am looking at chl rubber from Latex and back

Amen Dwan. I firmly believe regular flushing with hot solvents eats packings.