My main concern with the striping equipment is that I can quickly drive them into the trailer and lock them down , yet still have the option of quickly moving the equipment to other optional locations within the trailer where they can still be quickly locked down (I'm guessing I might need several lengths if E-track in combination with some kind of wheel boxes or attaching clamps to the front of striper machines?). I need a Porta Potty..something simple or do I mount a water tank beneath the trailer? Speaking of water, is it worth it to have some kind of mounted fresh water tank for hand clean-up? Paint can storage: Any ideas for racks that would allow triple stacking of paint cans so I can reduce the footprint of +/- 10 pails of paint? Stencil storage: I have seen some tips while doing a search... any good new methods if keeping them well organized inside of an 8'x16' trailer? Also, has anyone used a bars or tight cables stretched across the inside the trailer to dangle wet stencils until the paint has hardened up? Heating the inside of the trailer to keep things warm and ready to go: The roof of my trailer is already insulated, but would it be worth it for me to pull off the inside veneer paneling and insulate the side walls? What kind of insulation should work best? Also, would I want to insulate the floor somehow or would that be overkill? Electric Jack: Who make the best dependable jack, and how heavy duty should I buy... 3500lbs ? Also, how long of a crank span -- 18" or 24" (I'm think longer would be better if the ball was hanging up and raising the back of the pickup truck ? Rear view camera(s): Looking for a quality 'wired' setup with sound capabilities and possibly an object alert function (they got it all these days). I'm wondering if I should buy a dedicated monitor in a kit form, or if I might want to just integrate a dash radio/GPS with a large built in LCD screen, and purchase my cameras separately?
Setting up an 8' x 16' trailer
Discussion in Tips & Tricks started by Markings #1 (unclaimed legacy handle), Jan 2, 2015. 9 replies, last reply Feb 12, 2016.
I have the exact same size enclosed trailer. I use motorcycle chocks. I drive the machines into the chock with the front wheel and tie down the machines to D-rings on the floor. I installed some 1x2 furring strips along the sides of the trailer and use large rubber covered steel clamps to hold many stencils to the side walls of the trailer. I do not stack paint more that 2 jugs high. If I need to bring more, I put it the back of the pickup. Porto pot? I stop at a gas station. Heat? I'm in Minnesota. If I need heat, its too (expletive) cold to paint lines. I have no electric jack, I just keep the hand crank one lubed up well. No rear view cameras. I just have never needed to have that. Hope this helped!
Heres some older pics in my 7X14. the wheel captures are bolted to plywood that is screwed to the floor. The extra layer of plywood adds floor strength, can be removed easily to use the trailer for other things and leaves a clean floor if you want to sell the trailer. Traditionally I use the breaks on the units and that keeps everything where it belongs but the roads are getting rougher and sometimes the driver bounces to the right. So I am going to deal with that soon. I carry eight buckets single high but since I pull with a P/U extra paint goes in there. You'll notice that I use plywood stencils, that's what I prefer, they stand up against the wall. Tongue weight is 800 lbs but it tows fine. That extra extra 2 feet in length and 1 foot in width should help a lot. I hope this gives you some ideas http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Ameri-Stripe/library/?s…
Markings #1 wrote on Jan 2, 2015:Go to #1My main concern with the striping equipment is that I can quickly drive them into the trailer and lock them down , yet still have the option of quickly moving the equipment to other optional locations within the trailer where they can still be quickly locked down (I'm guessing I might need several lengths if E-track in combination with some kind of wheel boxes or attaching clamps to the front of striper machines?). I need a Porta Potty..something simple or do I mount a water tank beneath the trailer? Speaking of water, is it worth it to have some kind of mounted fresh water tank for hand clean-up?
Use a Tree Paint can storage: Any ideas for racks that would allow triple stacking of paint cans so I can reduce the footprint of +/- 10 pails of paint? Stencil storage: I have seen some tips while doing a search... any good new methods if keeping them well organized inside of an 8'x16' trailer? Also, has anyone used a bars or tight cables stretched across the inside the trailer to dangle wet stencils until the paint has hardened up?We keep paint in the truck Heating the inside of the trailer to keep things warm and ready to go: The roof of my trailer is already insulated, but would it be worth it for me to pull off the inside veneer paneling and insulate the side walls? What kind of insulation should work best? Also, would I want to insulate the floor somehow or would that be overkill? Only is you use latex or waterborne paint. Oil I dont worry about Electric Jack: Who make the best dependable jack, and how heavy duty should I buy... 3500lbs ? Also, how long of a crank span -- 18" or 24" (I'm think longer would be better if the ball was hanging up and raising the back of the pickup truck ?YES Rear view camera(s): Looking for a quality 'wired' setup with sound capabilities and possibly an object alert function (they got it all these days). I'm wondering if I should buy a dedicated monitor in a kit form, or if I might want to just integrate a dash radio/GPS with a large built in LCD screen, and purchase my cameras separately?Never had one, get good at backing up and you should not need one
We use electric jack, back up camera, porta poti and electric heat. As far as I'm concerned all are a must. None needs to be really elaborate. The height of the jack depends on truck height. Ours is 18". You don't really need a water storage tank, just get a porta poti that has one built on it. You probably don't need to insulate as most of the time you won't need heat. If you do it is to cold to paint with latex. We just use a hard wired backup camera with 7" screen. We haul our paint in the truck as the 20 foot trailer is loaded, three paint machines, 1 lazy liner and a golf car plus the small stuff. We store our stencils on the floor and cover them with pieces of carpet about 5' square. There good to pull out and load paint in the machines on. We also use a 12 foot trailer that we keep a grinder and another paint machine in as well as paint storage. It is rare we take it to a job site unless we are going to grind or up in the mountains where the legal length is limited to 35 foot. My best advice is don't skimp on the size of the trailer as it is the first thing you out grow. We started with an 8' and are now out growing both trailers combined.
Long story short, don't triple stack. A can falling from that height (accidents happen) will cause either spillage, damage to you machines, or damage to other gear in the trailer. We don't have a porta potty or any sort running water or insulation. If it gets cold enough to the point where an insulated trailer would come into play, it's too cold to paint. You can never have too many tie down points, we installed a bunch of D-rings flush in the floor and on the walls. This year we will be adding a generator, a highboy painter with a long line, and some high power LED floods to provide excellent lighting for night work refills and the odd paint colour change or on the fly equipment repair. I'm huge on lighting and have spent a good chunk of money to outfit my machines with excellent lighting, time to do the same for the trailer.
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