Sherwin Williams Paint

Went to SW last week and they wanted to charge me $35.00/gal for blue...when asked if that was the best they could do he said he could get it down to $30.00...I said no thanks...haven't bought a lot of paint this year but that seemed very high regardless...I'm in Central Jersey...does that seem high to anybody else? Jay

Buy white and have them tint it to blue for free. You should pay around 12.00 if you dont buy alot. Jim

Jim....if they tint the white does it come out light blue...or I guess it depends on how much tint they use...and will all SW stores do this? Why would he quote me such a high price? Jay

They do it because that is the list price. He was trying to make a killing that day. We add 18oz of blue to 5 gallons and it makes a little darker than baby blue. Jim

ya I tell them to put all the blue tint in they can otherwise it is robin egg blue.

4 ozs tint/gallon for Duke Blue, less for Carolina Blue.....

Some red and black will give it a violet tone. Franklin Paint has the best blue out there. It holds its color and looks great, Jon

It amazes me how over the course of 3 1/2 months these threads take on a life of their own. I believe the original question was about "color" of paint not "price" of paint. My question for "jetcoat" is, why not just use Aexcel paint if you prefer the color. That's my main reason for using Aexcel, in addition to faster drying time than S/W, Standard, ICI and so on. I've yet to find a manufacturer, who's color compares. In addition S/W lead free yellow fades to almost a pink within 90 days. just my experience. On the pricing subject, maybe Don should make an area on member profile where each member could list their current pricing on paint. Of course most members, won't even fill in where they are from, more less other useful information like pricing and such.

You must remember they are salesman first grass hopper.A relationship and some donuts for the sales team gets us some pretty good treatment .S.W. management does us pretty good. Oh sure they slip up if you don't watch your prices but hey. I have found pricing is best after a lunch with paint rep.after some friendly getting to know each other.(they always pick up the tab too) But is best to strike your deal and keep it to yourself and don't let them know what your paying somewhere else. You cant get the best deal without working for it and then keep it under your hat,because if you tell your painting buddy your new savings and he runs down wanting the same thing you got, you are going to have a paint rep. not too happy with you.

I've had the worst luck with ICI/Dulux color retention. Unless it has changed, Aexcel is ICI but with a different label. I have SW yellow and ICI yellow stripes side-beside on the UNT campus. SW yellow is still yellow. The ICI looks chalky and more like white than yellow. Also had problems with ICI "fogging". Forget striping within 3 feet of cars with ICI unless you want to tempt fate.

$9.00 all day long. White,yellow and blue. as the blue goes. We get enough white all we have to do is get them to tint it for us and seeing htat SW tints for FREE we stock up on white. -Dean

Sherwin Williams in my area is like dealing with a wolf in sheep's clothing. Real nice guys get along with great but they love to slip in the price increases without saying anything so if you don't look at the receipt every time they will burn ya. Have asked store manager and sales rep about buying 100 gallons at a time and what kind of pricing I could get. Laughed right in my face and said I would have to "buy a whole truck load then we'll talk". Price has gone from around 10 to almost 15 a gallon. I'll do business with someone else and use SW only if I'm in a pinch and need a bucket or two.

\\\STRIPES/// wrote on Aug 28, 2006:Go to #30

I've had the worst luck with ICI/Dulux color retention. Unless it has changed, Aexcel is ICI but with a different label. I have SW yellow and ICI yellow stripes side-beside on the UNT campus. SW yellow is still yellow. The ICI looks chalky and more like white than yellow. Also had problems with ICI "fogging". Forget striping within 3 feet of cars with ICI unless you want to tempt fate.

Ken, I tried that "ICI" paint a few years ago on your recommendation. It was supposed to be the same as Aexcel and so-on. IT WAS NOT AND IS NOT! I bought fifteen gallons, used 5-6, took 5 back, threw away the rest. Clogged my tip about every 15 feet. Check your labels. It comes from a completely different factory/state than the Aexcel I get at Centerline(TX). Plus, it's a different color. More milky looking like S/W. I will admit, I've dealt with fogging issues before. But only twice in 8 years. I can typically tell when I open a can now, whether it's gonna fog/atomize too quickly. There is extreme seperation of the solids and thinners. If your shaking your cans or using your "punch" method, this will not be apparent. Usually, if I encounter a paint issue, Centerline is good about upgrading me too the "Gorilla" paint at a comparable price until the problem is corrected. Therefore, I don't really worry about it too much.

I could be wrong. I'll give the Aexcel paint another try. It has bee several years since I tried any.

The last Aexcel paint I used had a massive amount of "atomizing fog" (thanks for the term Ross). I am about out of a pallet of Aexcel blue alkyd purchased late last year and have used a dozen or so pail so of SW chlorinated rubber white tinted to blue. The difference is drastic. the CR does not have any atomizing fog and the Aexcel has so nuch that it makes even my shoes and legs blue when I use it. We used a pallet of yellow from Aexcel last season and it was exactly the same way. I felt like pig-pen from a snoopy cartoon going across the parking lot there was so much "fog" around me.

Speaking of color....I'm using mostly S-W Setfast waterborne. On new coal tar sealer, it's turning brown. Anyone else having that problem? I wonder if it's the paint or the sealer (Neyra coal tar)? Any suggestions? Thanks.

If the sealer is not cured before you stripe that will happen. Sealer cure times differ, so i can't tell you exactly how long to wait, but we try to stripe the next day, you shouldn't be striping less than 6 hours after Dry. If the sealer had an additive such as FASS-DRI or something comparable, i have heard you can stripe 30 minutes later. We mean to try some on our next project, and will post results, less somebody here does it for us.

aexcel does used to make all of Gliddens (ICI) striping. They do make it different for different zones and it always fogs.For the long run you can't go wrong with SW paint at least not in NC. In the last thousand gallons we bought had one can that had some chunks in it. The rest was so creamy and smooth with nothing left in bottom. I have never had such great customer service than the SW store in Hickory N.C. just my two cents worth...

Guys, don't get me wrong. I don't necessarily have a problem with S/W paint other than the color.I'm sure it's a fine product. My problem is with the way they do business. Could be the first time in, when they screwed me on pricing (3x what Centerline quoted me the first time I called), or last year when ole "Arthur" from the home office up north called with his "best price" of $5400each on a LL3900III (that was even buying 2 machines). I've bought their paint before, and now, when all is said and done, they want my business. Let me point out, I did catch a friendly sales rep one day and he helped get my pricing straight. So when I'm traveling I don't get raped by the local stores. Heck, I can get S/W cheaper than Aexcel now. But, I'm sure they've lost over a hundred thousand dollars in business over the last eight years. All due to that first impression. To top it all off, they transferred the same old jerk from my first visit to the commercial store to my local neighborhood store. So now, when I stop in for rags or masking tape, I get to look at his sorry a**!!! If he stays much longer, I'll have to go back to buying my odds and ends at Home Depot. That's just MY two cents and sadly 99% of you have experienced the same thing...and still do volume business with them.

A) You GOTS to sit down with a SW sales rep and have him quote EVERYTHING you might buy from SW and put it in your pricebook. I even had mine quote Duration house paint so I can get a decent price for when I "be getting my paint on". B) Buy your solvents when they are on special C) Whack your SW sales associate on the nose with a rolled up newspaper when they try to jack your price. D) Check your invoices. My SW store likes to hand me a receipt with no pricing on it. I have caught enough pricing errors on invoices to make me think SW is getting screwed by their Point of Sale Software supplier...and they are passing that screwing on to us!!!.