Spray tip care storage tips for water borne SW paint
Discussion in Striping & Marking started by AllStripeAndPowerwashASAP (unclaimed legacy handle), Mar 11, 2015. 36 replies, last reply Mar 28, 2015.
ncstripe1 wrote on Mar 17, 2015:Go to #20answering his question directly you are incorrect. mixing any paint without at least flushing the machine out COULD end up a disaster. his question is...will the water left in the machine effect the oil base paint. im ASSUMING the water is from the cleanout. it will not, but to be on the safe side you COULD flush the water out with thinner then add the paint. its ok to agree to disagree...I do it all the time.
Think about what you said. Mixing water and oil based paint won't effect it? Are you serious? If you do not run xylene or another mineral spirit through the machine after switching from water based you will have a gooey mess. Same if you don't run water through after switching from oil based. Call graco or whoever u purchase paint from and they will tell you the same thing.
A couple time we mixed some Sherman and Colorado latex and it turned to like a chalking in the guns. Had the same experience mixing their oil bases. In both cases we got it out of the machines before any damage was done. I think Rock is referring to purging not miking. We purge on dark colors (blue,red, black) and never a problem. We run three machines so never a need to change yellow to white or visa verse. When we use to do it we found the worst was purging from yellow to white. The color would change to almond for quite a while. The dark colors are not a problem at all.
italy2003 I do what works for me sir. no gooy messes. btw...why are you using zylene with oil, that's overkill and very expensive plus its going to loosen a lot of paint in your machine. I see why you may have problems esp if you have you nose up a graco reps butt.
mineral spirits or paint thinner. xylene and napthea will cause too much stuff to come loose and create clogs plus the smell is outrageous. oil and latex will work fine as long as the machine is cleaned out properly. the low voc paints are another story, I can see having a dedicated machine for that paint although I don't use those paints. its all about what works for you tho.
sw oil/ sw hotline. the xylene is required for the chlorinated rubber. if you are using those 2 with xylene im not sure id use latex in those machines. I haven't used c/r paint in years but I do remember that stuff if someone mixed it with oil the paste you have to deal with. if I had my way id use oil base only and do mostly except for sealer jobs. most guys here are still spraying coal tar sealer so latex is a must do.
Yea NC we have one machine that is dedicated to chloronated. Than I have 2 other machines we switch back and forth. I would prefer to shoot oil base but we do a lot of sealing work so all those lots have to be latex. All our re stripes are oil based. If I could I would buy 2 more machines so I wouldn't have to switch. Maybe next year. Just bought my first driver for this season so I have to wait to buy another machine.
italy2003gt wrote on Mar 28, 2015:Go to #33I'm excited to finally have a driver. I figured it out last year I walked 128 miles.
I did that or more for ten years before the first Lazy Liner was on the market, paying for it now with worn out hips and knees. A driver is the best investment you'll ever make.
The last few years I have picked up some large malls and shopping centers. Some with 7000+ spots and I would wear myself out walking them so I'm really excited to finally being able to sit lol. Most of the lots I striped in the past were just lots we sealcoated with a average of 100-200 spots so those were not bad walking but now I def need the driver.
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