Striping over new pavement

Hello fellow stripers, I haven't been here in a while, due to the fact I ran into some rough financial times, mainly due to the fact I jumped into the striping business thinking it was like housepainting, Being in NorCal, (and a housepainter for 30 years) I figured year long work ... stripe inbetween the rain drops. Man, was I wrong. You can paint a house at 50 degrees, but not a parking lot. I didn't consider the cold nights coming at 5:00. Or the pavement not warming 'til noon, if it did at all. Anyhow, after 2 crappy winters, and many lessons learned ... I'm back. Still excited about the business, just have lowered my expectations (but not my goals) Well, I'm not gonna start chattin (yet), I just have some questions. I actually have tons of questions, which I'm sure you'll be hearing down the road, but one is one I need to know now. How long does new pavement need to dry before I can stripe it. I did a handicap zone over a new patch (2 weeks old) and it kept bleeding through, turned brown. 3 coats later, it covered. I used a latex (Pervo out of L.A.) It's what I have used all along, and I love it. A shopping center is being paved Monday, and I am going to stripe it, so I really need to know when it'll be safe to stripe. and do they (you), put up something temperary? I can't imagine a busy lot with no direction for parking. I'm near Sac, so it will be 80-110 ... thats a given. Case you're wonderin why I don't know this yet, I have done mostly repaints, ols pavements. Thanks, y'all, I love reading this forum, and I get alot of info and laughs from it. You will see alot of me, this is a warning

i'll give it a shot As far as how dry the pavement? It needs to be really dry. Remember you are using a water based paint. But I have put paint down when the dew is fallen and it sticked If you are having a problem get a blower and dry the lines that why. We have had to put the blower on the lines before and walk back to stripe the other lines and by the time we got to where the blower iwas at the lines were dry. Paint over a patch. YOu can either walk really slow over the patch or this is going to sound bad. But put dirt over the patch and then blow the drit off really good. The asphalt is still porus and you have to fill the holes, Is the a cold patch or a hot mix patch? The reason I ask is if it is a cold patch you would have top use dirt or sand to make the cold patch dry out. But if it a hot mix patch tell the guy that put it down that he needs to roll it better if they want for you to get in and do your job the right why. A patch and newly paved mat is something totally different We have to going right after some of the pavers and stripe that night. But we are using 3-17 and we are not striping fast at all. The reason for that is because we have to put more Mils down on newer paint. Good Luck -Dean

Alkyd paint will solve 90% of your problems.

I can not understand how a lot of people use 317 tips. You can not put enough paint down unless you walk at 1 mph. The smallest tip we would use walking is a 319 but most of the time 321. One pass is better than 2 or more. Jim

I agree with \\\Stripes/// use an oil based paint. I paint literally just hours after the pavement has gone down and don't have any problems. The only time I've had bleed through problems is when using oil based paint over new seal coatings. Just my two bits.

They are right AFineLine... oil based paint will take care of your issues. You can stripe right after the asphalt is put down (even though they say on the can to wait), you can stripe when its 40 degrees and foggy, you can even stripe as soon as Asphalt Emulsion Sealer is dry to the touch. You have to use latex paint on coal tar sealer. Your paint should not have bled through on a 2 week old patch, even using latex. It must have been a patch material I am not familiar with. For your shopping center layout job. You can stripe it as soon as they are finished rolling it (if you use oil based paint) so you should be able to use their traffic control. They probably won't want to open it for a while anyway till the asphalt cures.

I don't think you can use oil paint in Cal no more? I am right? Not even low voc.

We follow our asphalt crew all the time and we just turn our paint up all the way and just stripe, we have never really had a problem...but yea, new asphalt does absorb the paint more versus over sealcoating or old pavement. Just make sure you are putting out enough paint and if it is a sh*tty patch due to lack of compaction then...nothing you can really do about it other than coat it 2 or more times. Oil-based paint does do better on new asphalt then Latex.

JimJack, Low VOC oil based is still okay to use in California. At least they haven't taken that away from us. AFineLine, According to your profile, you must be in the Placerville area. I'm not too far away from you. 35 miles south of Sac in Lodi. We ought to get together sometime. Pervo has a good low VOC acetone paint. If your getting Pervo from Centerline in Elk Grove, they should have the low VOC also. Do you know which plant is making the AC for the parking lot? American River, Granite, Tichert? In the past there was no problem putting down paint shortly after paving, but now their using that PM graded mix and I haven't put any paint on that yet. We'll get a chance next month though after our overlays are done. And yea, the last two winters, especially this latest one really sucked around here. At least your up where you don't have to worry much about the rivers spilling over. PM or e-mail me if you'd like.

I thought you were only supposed to use latex on asphalt?

That's what The Asphalt Institute (THE authority on all things asphalt) says and these days if a paint is spec'ed it will almost always be latex-waterborne. Over the years this has been often discussed and most stripers here use what they are familiar with and what they have experience with, (and I'm not out to change them) but most are stripers who only stripe and have never been on the "paver-end" like me, so for me it's always latex-waterborne.