SW Behind the Lines

I have just started a business and would like to know how everyone does the side walk curbs. Is there a special way of doing them. Thanks for the help.

We keep the gun attached to the machine and angle it just right to avoid overspray on the top sidewalk, and away we go, we will make two passes one for the side of the curb and one for the top, on longer curb jobs we will use two guns and make one pass. Curbs take practice, and best advice is to go slow at first, but also avoid thick paint build up as it may peel.

TLM, I first shoot the face of the curb (depending on how smooth the surface) in order to get a straight uniform line along the bottom of the curb. The gun is placed parallel to the back axle when doing this. Then, if the sidewalk is adjoining the curb, if space permits, I will drive the LL and paint machine up on the sidewalk and place the gun (still parallel to the back axle) out slightly and turn the pistol down and slightly "in" toward the face of the curb. I'll shoot the top and face then go back ( if necessary) and touch up with the long hose that has a 215 tip. Coincidentally, I'm presently drafting a piece for Pavement Mag. for striping/restriping firelanes. This techhnique will be included as firelanes are often painted curbs. I have never been successful at using two guns as most of our curbs are too irregular to allow such.

Ill add to that, thats right, forget using two guns if the asphalt is bumpy or the concrete curbs are uneven, in those cases one gun is better, thats the disadvantage to using two guns, if the curbs are off, it's impossible to adjust the spray for the difference with out messing up the other guns spray.

Thank you very much for the information How do you handle over spray if there is any?

There is not much you can do on concrete, we have a little sandblast pot that we use if we really have an accident (like a clogged tip), also for very small mistakes or splatters you might be able to use a little gray spray paint, but only if it is small, other than that the gray may make it worse. Thats the reason curbs take time when you start, they are less forgiving.

If I'm doing store front curbing I usually have my guys go and tape off the entire length on the top to avoid overspray on the concrete. Takes a little longer but you won't have to worry about the PM or others complaining about the messy appearance. I build the tape cost into my proposal so its usually never a big deal. Sean Paramount Asphalt

A prime example of why it is SOOOO important to have high pressure water blast available. The "oops" come right up when still fresh. The next day is a different story. As far as "what do you do about overspray" you shouldn't have any (overspray) unless you are using air atomized machines. Now, if you are referring to not painting in the wrong place, that comes with experience. After learning the rear wheel technique, it gets real easy. Just takes a little practice.

Line Man, As other indicate, shoot off the rear axle. If you are worried about overspray / misplaced paint due to rough ground, get you a roll of roofing paper to roll out. Shouldn't be much paint on it and you can reuse it. It will give you alittle exta margin til you get comfortable. Good Luck

Once again a preferential method depending on your experience I think. I shoot the top of the curb as I would a line then I take the gun out of the mount and ride the LL along as I spray the curb by hand. Two passes, one to get a nice line where the curb and the driving surface meet and one to get the middle of the curb. I believe this is faster for me, faster than setting the angle of the gun etc. Plus I have total control of the gun for when the curb is not even as Stripes said, as it never is. This is after years of painting curb by hand, I used to push the machine with one hand and spray with the other , the LazyLiner has once again made life easier for Rosscoe! And...If there are any "oops" along the way folks, your best bet is to erase them immediately. Then there is no sandblasting or pressure washing at all, ever.

SD...altho I am a front wheel guy, try painting the second pass with the gun by the rear wheel. You will get a really smooth edge that follows the pavement profile....and you'll look more professional ...nyuck nyuck nyuck.

BornToStripe wrote on Apr 21, 2005:Go to #11

SD...altho I am a front wheel guy, try painting the second pass with the gun by the rear wheel. You will get a really smooth edge th

eat follows the pavement profile....and you'll look more professional ...nyuck nyuck nyuck. When it is all said and done my work speaks for itself. And there will be no questions about looking professional or perception of quality, I can provide photos if there are. People are absolutely amazed as you buzz around the lot and the lot transforms before their very eyes, or had transformed over night as the case with many jobs here.

Let me add this. I have tried painting curb from the front, gun in holder, angled. Two guns, angled. From the back, angled. All of these methods work and have their place, as I said, your preferential method. 15 years ago I learned to paint curb holding the gun in one hand while pushing the machine at the same time with the other! It was not easy, but as you progress you master the task as with anything. Now I ride the LazyLiner and shoot from it, lean over and spray as I go, it is very quick for me and I prefer it. Hope all these methods give you some options and you master the task at hand.

Today for the first time I received Sherwin Williams "Behind the Lines" news letter and product info. Not one, but twenty three of them! Now if they can have a little chat with the store manager who doesn't know anything about or even stock their own paint...

Quoting MarkG, April 22, 2005 (that post is not in this thread):

I'm a newbie and wasn't sure what cables were used for, but I'm assuming you use them for long runs that would be impractical or impossible to snap.. I know... It really is not that hard to snap the cable over long runs, I thought so too until I tried it for the first time. You do need a good sized weight or helper on the other end though.

Quoting MarkG, April 22, 2005 (that post is not in this thread):

Im a newbie and wasnt sure what cables were used for, but Im assuming you use them for long runs that would be impracticle or impossible to snap.. I know... Use them for long line, center lines, especially for marking stall ends (starts & stops where you wouldn't want a chalk line all the way down the ends of the spaces) doing curves (which you can't do with a chalk line) or like Robert said for painting "next to". I always keep a short one on the machine just for the occasional crooked line or something so I don't have to wag around a chalk box. Compared to chalk cables or Ken's trimmer line make it easier for "newbies" to get the hang of starts & stops because they are 3 dimensional and you eye "sees" them better than the chalk line that's just flat & even with the pavement...it's all in the way the mind processes visual input but many people who were having trouble with starts & stops have told me I was right, it's easier with a cable or such (and especially in low light or shadows like under the lights at night).