type of paint

This is assuming that it is sunny and 60 degrees. There are so many schools of thought throughout the old posts and I know everyone has their own preference. I'm after the best all around paint for cured asphalt, or a "you can't go wrong with this paint" paint.

I will say that although I voted for CR, we have recently started to use more and more waterbased paints on re-stripes as well as new construction. I will say that I have been very pleased with dry times and durability. I think the newest generations of waterborne paints are much improved over years ago. We have been using Sherwin Williams and ICI (Aexcell private labled) waterborne this summer.

Thanks Asphaltman,I do realize that this subject has been beat to death. I am just starting out as many of you know, and most of the work so far that I've looked at is on old asphalt. Just wanted everyones opinion on what they would start out with. I priced SW LO VOC oil based at 17 bucks a gallon. I've read good things about Aexcel, but the SW oil based is readily available.

I also voted cr but many times use latex as i do not stripe daily and latex cleans up easier less expensive.(water vs.spirits),on the other hand latex is harder (more adbrasive) on tips and machine. On cross walks and R&R xings we do two coats cr.at 15 mils.( I like our 5900 we bought this year as we can see mills we are putting down) We are going out with the MDOT friday morning to put down SW cr on a hwy cross walk on one side and they are putting down (I believe) Pervo latex . All of our work is on asphalt.

Mwuahahahaha latex is easier to clean up? We are sposed to clean our machines? My blue machine is going to be very dismayed to hear that, as I haven't cleaned it since June of '04 and haint used it nary a bit since June of '06. I expect it to spray later tonight too....

The biggest thing to remember, as said above, latex paints tend to be a little more harsh on the machines, but can dry quicker. You need to make sure air does not contact the paint bucket much, or it will skin over and create chunks in your paint. Also latex paints are more sensitive to high humidity and cool temps, where most solvent paints will do better in those conditions. Since you are just starting, and probably using smaller qty's, I would just use what ever you can get the best pricing and availability on.

Aspahltman are you sure that latex roadmarking paint dries quicker than oilbased roadmarking paint? If it does I would swap paints straight away. My major concern with the latex paints is not having it dry in time when marking in certain humidity's. What has been proved in many a road marking trails through out the world is that Latex paint has held up the best, (not including coldplastics, structured marking, thermo etc) I know in the states that some states have banned the paint we use over here, so I figure they must have improved the dying factor significantly since the last time we discussed this 5 or 6 years ago on Rob original forum. Jpanz whats your opinion as your temperatures must fluctuate and I'm led to believe you use waterborne paint? whats the dying time like compared with C/R?

We use 95% oil based. I HATE using latex. It costs me money to watch paint dry. We painted 10 1/2 months in 2005, theres no way I could do that using latex (waterborne). In the cold weather below 40 degrees the oil takes about 5-10 minutes to dry. It holds up real well when sprayed above 25 degrees. If I could figure out a way to spray white oil on Sealcoating I would but even two coat bleeds through a little. If there is a little fog rolling around the latex just sits there and will not dry for an hour. Most of work is done at night so the latex has a real problem drying. Jim

thought so, I will stay away from it until they come up with a formula for a quicker drying time for our weather conditions.

born to stripe.. let us know how machine sprayed after being set for so long and be honest with time taking to get it going the right way verses the time it would have taken just to clean it out.

Latex will dry a bit faster when the conditions are right, meaning low humidity and nice warm weather. However don't even think of quick dry times in cool weather or higher humidity, it will be forever.

I voted for oil base because it works under all conditions. Why keep 2 or 3 different typs of paint around. Like BTS I my machines only get cleaned if I need to work on them and that has not happened in the last 2 years. I do clean the tips after every use then spray them down with WD40 and reinstall them in the gun. All I have ever had to do is start any of my machines and start spraying. If they have set for 1 month or longer I do remove the dryed film on the top og the paint then add a cup or 2 of thinner and let it float on top of the paint. Another reaqson I voted for oil is because that is all I have ever used except when I did use a roller on a fire lane curb. then the laytex I used took over 1/2 hour to dry. I finished the job with oilbase. Anyone want to buy a 1/2 gal of 4 year old red laytex? There are a number of mechanical devices which increase sexual arousal, particularly in women. Chief among these is the Mercedes-Benz 500SL." Lynn Lavner

We used to be 100% CR but have switched this last summer to waterbased. The two biggest reasons are, WB paints are better compatible with our Asphalt Emulsion seal coats, and also when the conditions are right and they dry quick, most brands do not "track" or pick up dirt like solvent paints can. When we paint speed bumps they look so sharp with WB, but with solvent based, we would always get a little browning and tracking.

JJ, I cut the skin off, mixed the paint a bit, circulated and went to spraying. Total time about 8 minutes. I do use a snap fit plastic pail lid under my metal pail lid. It keeps the paint fresher, and pretty much eliminates splashes in the trailer. The best part: didn't use any solvent, or create any waste byproducts. Even the washwater used to clean latex-only machines can be considered as hazardous to the environment, and should be disposed of properly. If I was truly conscientous, I would circulate the machine each week, but then I would put my title of "world's laziest striper" at risk...

I beg your pardon! I covet my title.

I'm a newbie looking to get the business off the ground the 1st of the year, made contact with my SW rep to establish rates and different styles of paint and was informed that I have only 1 choice, that's latex, appears our county has restrictions on CR, I'd like to thank the forum for giving me the knowledge of the pricing for paint around the country, my rep right out of the gate appears to have given me great prices, based on forum inquiries. Sandman

No offense to you or SW, but I would not trust a SW store manage right out of the gate. They will tell you what is convenient for them.

Ditto on that..if you won't be travelling like we did the past few months for an important customer, the best thing you can do is locate a paint manufacturer and buy direct, ask them first for a local supplier in your area. We have bought from 8 to 12 pails at a time, had it shipped, and it is still more affordable and better paint than sw when you choose right. Ennis paint, Franklin Paint, Aexcel, Pervo, Technical coatings...call around and try what you think you might like.

Also it gets cheaper if you order more like 16 to 24 pails at a time or more, from any of the mfg's. We got messed up by SW on pricing and availability of paint, we should have just carried the paint with us, but at the time we didn't think that seemed justifiable, now we know better.

Chipster,My amazement with not using a latex machine for 4 months isn't the skim in the bucket, but rather the skim in the air bubble on the top of the intake hose. Contrary to popular belief an airless machine is not an airtight system. There is always an air bubble in that hose. The skim that forms will stop a Graco dead in its tracks! They love to slide to the 90 degree elbow and plug there or gather in the lower ball valve. Add 90+ degree heat on that hose and I am truly amazed it didn't plug up! I'm guessing Cormac might back me up on the air bubble info.