Xpotential Wheelstops

Any helpful hints on first road striping job.

IMO, once you start paint a stretch of line, don't stop, unless you are way off. In our experience we first would stop every 40 ft or so to look back and make sure we were on etc.., but it was that stop and starting that made it look less than perfect. Most road work (unless it is a straight road) you will have larger tolerances for being "off the mark" than in parking lots. All this is assuming you are painting using a walk behind striper with a LD/LL (I would not attempt a road with out a driver). This is all my opinion and is from our experience with small roads, others may disagree, buts its what we do...Good Luck

SAFETY, SAFETY AND SAFETY. If you are working a "live" street remember the motorists around you don't care a whit about you. You are another traffic cone in the road of life. I worked for five years installing traffic signals and that, coupled with one of my competitors losing a leg (and almost his life) street striping has made me wary of street work. Even if you are working a "closed" street, the construction equipment around you is deadly dangerous. Take time to review your safety plan, make sure that your co-workers are alert and aware, and WORK SAFE.

I had a sealer ask me if i could tape a tennis court after he sealed it... I told him i would let him know what it would cost and if i could do it... Anyone have a rough idea what two courts would cost and how difficult it would be to do... They are being sealed but they have to be taped. I may give the job to someone else and take notes. Any advice is appreciated, Ryan OTM

I did a couple with my old company I use to work for, only expensive piece of equipment you will need is a sports taper, makes 2" lines needed for the court, runs about $420ish alone. I don't remember the dimensions off the top of my head, but it was not a hard layout, just make sure you know the right dimensions. I heard tennis court striping is a very profitable niche market with little $$ needed to get the job done. You could add in the cost for the sports taper in the bid easily, and still walk away with $1000, $2000 depending on what you bid. Again, don't know the price my old company charged but they said they were the only ones around the area that did it, so they made a killing off each one. I'm sure someone on here can give you a rough idea on what they charge. Good luck!! Sean Paramount Asphalt http://www.parkinglotplanet.com/sport_taper.htm

If the court is already there, you can get small flag markers that you can place in the asphalt before the sealer comes along, where the lines begin and end. The large roadmarkers use them all the time on the roads. Just pull them out when your finished. That would be the easiest way. They won't get in the way and the don't do any damage at all. Sean did you say $2000 !!! Find me some!!! I'm sa comming! here's some pics for ya

and more the red mark is the center point the green the first lines we snap

be sure to use a pre-set paint or a primer like paint before you stripe are you going to brush it or use a machine to stripe it? -Dean

I can stripe a tennis court in an hour, with one helper. Compared to the basketball courts I do, they are ridiculously easy. I use a Sport Taper and spray the lines with a striping machine. I'm too cheap - $400.

BE CAREFULL LAYING OUT LINES WITH THE WRONG DIMENSIONS, SOME NUMBERS THAT ARE GIVEN IN THE LAY OUT ARE MEASUREMENTS TO THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE LINE AND NOT TO THE CENTER OF IT.

Robert wrote on Apr 15, 2005:Go to #9

I can stripe a tennis court in an hour, with one helper. Compared to the basketball courts I do, they are ridiculously easy. I use a Sport Taper and spray the lines with a striping machine. I'm too cheap - $400.

Your Cheap AND Easy!

BornToStripe wrote on Apr 15, 2005:Go to #3

SAFETY, SAFETY AND SAFETY. If you are working a "live" street remember the motorists around you don't care a whit about you. You are another traffic cone in the road of life. I worked for five years installing traffic signals and that, coupled with one of my competitors losing a leg (and almost his life) street striping has made me wary of street work. Even if you are working a "closed" street, the construction equipment around you is deadly dangerous. Take time to review your safety plan, make sure that your co-workers are alert and aware, and WORK SAFE.

No one could have said it better. look out for yourself.. the striping will come natural

Last year these were a hot topic ! I tho't PLP was a distributor. Did this just fade away or were there some problems with the product that is not generally public knowledge ? We tried a few last year and they seem OK. Anybody have long term experience with info to add ? What's up ?? Randy

S.A.M. i will probably use my painter w/ very low pressure and a small tipe. i figure i can use those flags or maybe some concrete nails for reference points. I suppose i will quote him b/t 900.00 - 1100.00 for two courts. What was that primer you were talking about S.A.M.? Ryan O.T.M.

The primer is a clear that you have to seal the edges of the masking tape with to prevent color from running under the tape if you are brushing or rolling the lines. If you spray, you don't need to use it. Don't turn your pressure down, you should already be spraying at the lowest pressure it takes to make a good line. You control paint volume by using a smaller tip. I use a 2-13 on courts. Be sure to strain your paint and use the proper filter for a tip that size.