15 gallon paint hopper

Hey Guys, I wanted to get some insight and some advice. I was looking at getting a 15 gallon hopper for my graco 5900 and we use a very fast drying C/R paint. The question is, will I need to clean this hopper out with mineral spirits after every job or just let it build up and chip it out at the end of the season. Seams like a lot of work after every job to clean. Also on another note, I met with a Graco guy last week and their new line tips will no longer have that bar across the back of the tip anymore. He said this will improve the paint flow and less problems with the paint drying in there. Thanks everyone.

We just chip ours out as needed or at the end of the season, we also use a fast drying CR paint. We try to keep it covered as much as possible.

I have the undersized Titan 12 gallon tank and paint will build up a "lining" in the tank, it is very easy to peel it out, similar to LDPE stencil material. I think I have peeled out the paint in there once in two years. The lids will keep it from skinning if that is a concern, otherwise a splash of thinner will keep it from skinning.

You don't have to worry about cleaning the hopper out after every job. Just go to Home Depot or Lowe's and buy you commercial grade 3 mil trash bag liners. Insert into the hopper, fill with paint, do the job, when time comes for clean up take trash bag out insert into trash can, let dry, then throw away. It is very nice and neat. And if you are thinking about suction concerns? There isn't any, the paint pushes the bag away from the intake hose. It truly is a wonderful world when you use trash bags. I have 7 machines, which 6 have 15 gallon hoppers all of which have trash bags.

stripeitok wrote on Apr 4, 2005:Go to #4

You don't have to worry about cleaning the hopper out after every job. Just go to Home Depot or Lowe's and buy you commercial grade 3 mil trash bag liners. Insert into the hopper, fill with paint, do the job, when time comes for clean up take trash bag out insert into trash can, let dry, then throw away. It is very nice and neat. And if you are thinking about suction concerns? There isn't any, the paint pushes the bag away from the intake hose. It truly is a wonderful world when you use trash bags. I have 7 machines, which 6 have 15 gallon hoppers all of which have trash bags.

Excellent Idea, Im gonna have to try that this year! One Good Karma coming your way! Thanks

I have done this also, I used a thicker mil can liner though.

Provided you have access to quality paint, you can use a "hole punch" and draft paint straight from the can. This process is much faster than opening a five tin then pouring it into the hopper. Plus you don't have the possibility of accidental spill. Because the reduced amount of exposure to air (the hole should be just large enough for the suction and return tubes), the paint doesn't tend to "skin". When the paint gets low and the pump starts short cycling (sucking air), just drop another 5 gal into the machine, hit it with the punch and you are away in less than 60 seconds. Keep the partials for "splicing" back together after you are done striping. No time wasted on lifting tabs with a screw driver. No spills. No more accidental cuts on sharp tabs. No clean-up. No liners to mess with. Etc., Etc., Etc.

Stripes another good suggestion. But this is what I have found. Say you have 2 people striping the same size parking lot. Person 1 has a 5 gallon pail. Person 2 has a 15 gallon hopper. While person 1 stops twice after initial start, person 2 is still going (no relation to the little energizer bunny). On spill, it flows (no pun intended) into the same for both 5 gallon or 15 gallon hopper user, a little patience (and no wind) you can pour without spill. At the end of the 15 gallons it takes me maybe 2 minutes to open 3 more 5's and back on my way. And with the paint forming a skin on the top shouldn't be a concern if you order just the amount of paint needed for the job. The only skin forming should be in the empty 5 gallon pail. I do though leave paint in the hoppers for up to a week due to rate of work. But once a week to ensure a happy machine makes a happy striper I do clean out my machine. Of course one man's junk is another man's gold (I think that's the saying). So whatever works for the individual, helps the job go smooth should be the technique used.

\\\STRIPES/// wrote on Apr 5, 2005:Go to #7

Provided you have access to quality paint, you can use a "hole punch" and draft paint straight from the can. This process is much faster than opening a five tin then pouring it into the hopper. Plus you don't have the possibility of accidental spill. Because the reduced amount of exposure to air (the hole should be just large enough for the suction and return tubes), the paint doesn't tend to "skin". When the paint gets low and the pump starts short cycling (sucking air), just drop another 5 gal into the machine, hit it with the punch and you are away in less than 60 seconds. Keep the partials for "splicing" back together after you are done striping. No time wasted on lifting tabs with a screw driver. No spills. No more accidental cuts on sharp tabs. No clean-up. No liners to mess with. Etc., Etc., Etc.

What about straining the paint? No probs not doing it..

\\\STRIPES/// wrote on Apr 5, 2005:Go to #7

Provided you have access to quality paint, you can use a "hole punch" and draft paint straight from the can. This process is much faster than opening a five tin then pouring it into the hopper. Plus you don't have the possibility of accidental spill. Because the reduced amount of exposure to air (the hole should be just large enough for the suction and return tubes), the paint doesn't tend to "skin". When the paint gets low and the pump starts short cycling (sucking air), just drop another 5 gal into the machine, hit it with the punch and you are away in less than 60 seconds. Keep the partials for "splicing" back together after you are done striping. No time wasted on lifting tabs with a screw driver. No spills. No more accidental cuts on sharp tabs. No clean-up. No liners to mess with. Etc., Etc., Etc.

We use a hole punch also, you still have paint left on the pail when it is empty you still have to pour out. And you still have only five gallons of paint, we use the hoppers with garbage bags all season long. you can get more work done because you do not have to always refill or change the pail. I think you would make more of a mess taking out the suction tube everytime to switch pails than to pour into a hopper. Jim

You guys work too hard. I enjoy hopping off the machine once in a while to fill up the paint, stretch my legs, have some water. Ken likes his punch, and I understand the concept, but I ain't schlepping a bunch of half empty pails back to the shop. I empty a pail, let them dry, nest (stack) them at the job and dumpster them on the way back to the shop. I have used the hopper, and find it a really nice option, particularly when doing lots of double yellow work. To each his own.

If Ken perfects the can punch to work in a similar fashion to the old style oil can punch then I'd be interested for when it is appropriate. It would be easier to pour out the 3 quarts of paint that don't get suctioned out. One of the problems is just what Chip mentioned, paint still in the can to later be consolodated, wet paint in cans with disposal issues, can storage issues unless opened, dry and stack in each other. And then there is double yellow lines, as big a tips as your machine can handle at a speed faster than you know who and trying to keep up on filling the (expletive) thing(the hopper). I know I cannot open a 5 faster than he can punch it and go, but factor in all the rest of the BS before, during and/or after the job and I am not so sure there is a great big time savings. In the end is it spending a dollar to save a dime so-to-speak?

We are all creatures of habit. Or, if you are comfortable with how you are doing something, by all means keep doing it that way. Many people have claimed "Ken is a little different!" I don't take exception to that sentiment.... Instead, I'll try things differently .....over and over and over... just to make sure \\\STRIPES/// is MOST expedient in striping/restriping. I don't mind change!!!!! Because of being open minded, we can stay up with "THE BIG BOYS" out of Dallas and we have a really incredible work load. Matter of fact.... we can stay up with a 4 man crew.... (we are only 1 or two). As such, I can assure the following: 1) shooting from a 5 and changing using a punch saves time (tried both ways) 2) using the punch erases any spills 3) cleaning internals of a machine is unnecessary unless you leave it for extended periods, 4) there is no need to haul around partials.... if you happen to use 15 gal at one location,you can combine the previous 2 partial pails (if you ellct to do so at that time) 5) cleaning the outside of a machine is a vanity issue that is VERY expensive. I take great pride in having machines "look dirty." I'd rather be striping than taking the time for cleaning the outsides of them.. It pays me tons more striping than the time it takes to make machines "look purdy". My sentiment.... "If you have time to clean machines ...you need to be busier. PS StripeitOK... The above info assumes you are using a LL or LD. Going back to the truck or trailer running 15MPH for a 5 change-out is a whole lot different if you are walking!!!!!!!!!!

Ken Where did you get your punch or did you make it? Thanks, Woodie

Ken, post the punch again for the folks who have not seen it.

Another option with a Punch is to just use it to open the cans, easier to pour from a small hole then over the lip of the can.

Ken, I do use a line driver (bought one off your suggestion). But do want to make sure there is no misunderstanding on your cleaning point if it was directed toward my point about cleaning my machine. I clean out the "inside" of the machine "ONLY". I really don't have time to worry about the outside of the machine. On the point of pouring from a punched out hole is easier then over the lip, this is true as long as you don't get going faster then you want or the pouring turns into chugging and then you can worry about the whole mess issue. As said by someone earlier (I believe Ken) it's whatever you are comfortable with.

Thomas has got the concept! The punch also allows for instantly making an additional opening near the edge of the pail. Kind'a like pouring from a milk carton. Theoretically, the main hole is at or near the center. If you miss, the paint hits the lid, not the ground. Being the force of the blow to create the initial hole slightly craters the center, any errant paint ulitimately runs back into the can. What I especially like by using paint straight from the can, you don't have to worry about sudden stops, starts or turns while carrying a full bucket. 'Really P O's me to hit a curb and slosh paint on the ground.

Woody, I had a local welding/machine shop to make them.... But, they are really easy and simple to make. The shop charges me 20 bucks. I think Bob has a picture of one here on PLP photos.

our paint cans we get from our supplier has two openings, a screw top near the edge of the can that your pick up and dump pipes fit snug into, and also the whole lid can come off as well that you can reseal back down, so you can dry out your paint for disposal or what ever. Very well thought out.